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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, for 2 weeks now i ve some difficulties to start the car: battery is fine, starter motor too but the sometime need a lot effort to get the ignition and sometime even vhen it's started the motor stop after few second.

Any idea ? coils ? fuel pump ? my car is 50 000km

I ll change the head gasket and the spark plug but don't thing that solve that problem...
 

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2013 GTS Coupe
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Do you have a code reader ( OBD ) scanner instrument to see what fault codes it might show ..? If not, check this forum, there are several reasonably priced units ( $ 60-75 ) you can buy on Amazon with very quick delivery ,if you want to avoid having to take the car to a repair shop who has those readers and charge you for it. And you will likely need to use it again, so it’s good to have something like that . Because there are a lot of things which can cause those kind of symptoms, it’s going to be subject to a lot of speculation.. It could very well be a vacuum leak also..
I trust you mean the valve cover gasket, not the head gasket, correct ? Leaking I presume ..?
But yes, that will not solve your starting problems.
Replacing the spark plugs at 50,000 km seems a bit early, IMO, unless you checked one or two of them and determined there is a problem, becuase they look to be in bad shape .

Hopefully someone will reply soon with other suggestions, or better ideas ..
 

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Well I'd look at the battery first.

Then maybe fuel pressure but it's probably going to have to go to an expert.

Very unlikely to be head gasket,. Plugs I would expect to throw a code if it's that bad, but maybe not

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes you right valves cover gasket, not head gasket...

the french resaler of Autel is 15km from me so i ll probably get a MX808 to check the code ... and keep it after for oil change reset.

Seem to be more a cold start issue than hot
 

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Other things to check:
if cold start (only) is a problem, make sure the butterfly valve in the air intake isn't sticking
check air filter
 

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Remove the circular air filter case cover, spray some WD-40 on the linkage of the 4 barrel carburetor and then push the flaps with your finger to make sure they open and close easily . Oops, wrong forum, I was responding to a 1970s Chevy post..😝

Ok, joking aside, I think it’s best to start with that Autel scanner and see if it shows a fault code. A dirty MAF could cause that symptom but I imagine it would throw an alert or CEL to come on or flicker , and it would also likely manifest itself when idling or even driving with sporadic accelerating hesitation, spark plugs could do that but I think that would also trigger some alert, vacuum leaks are possible ( I‘ve had those in other cars where the engine fired up but then died within ten seconds after that, even some emissions components can cause problems of that nature, fuel pressure can certainly cause issues, and last but not least never rule out the battery .. weakening batteries ( even if they have enough power to start the car ) can cause havoc with a bunch of electronics ..have the battery tested under load by a shop .
Anyway, good luck finding the problem and the fix .
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ok thank for your help.
Those clamp can be open or closed again right ? or i need to replace them after opening ?

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ok thank for your help.
Those clamp can be open or closed again right ? or i need to replace them after opening ?
There are special pliers for such clamps but the first time I opened it, I just used a screw driver to unlatch it. I decided to replace it with a regular hose clamp (or you can also use T-clamps) to make it easier to open in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
i ve do the same, just bought some regular stainless hose on amazon.

now i ve to find the problem.
Last week i drove the car and lost the acceleration 2 or 3 time during stabilize driving, really look like a faulty throttle valve
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
just receive AUTEL DS808, run a full diag and the only fault i get is "personnal computer NBC": i pressume is because i ve Aucar installed instead of NIT ?
 

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With you described symptoms, and no CEL shown with the diagnostic scan, I would be checking fuel pressure and volume before throwing any parts at it YMMV
 

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There should be a port with a black cap on it on one or both fuel rails. Find the appropriate adapter in the fuel pressure gauge kit. There is a service manual link in this forum, find the specification and compare cranking, cold, hot, driving during anomaly etc.

Really, trying not to be rough on you, but this sound like it may be above your ability. Find a good shop and be as descriptive as possible with your concern
 
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