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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone like puzzles? If so read on...

Take car to store ( >5 mi away ) Lock car - everything normal.
Get in car drive back. MSP light goes on by itself. (Unable to shut off with button )
Park in garage- turn car off, turn back on MSP light is off and button allows for toggle.

I go to lock the car, it chirps and 2 seconds later unlocks itself yet the alarm stays on and active.

I have opened and closed all doors + Hood + Trunk. Center armrest is closed.

...a dozen times later still [press key or via the door] it locks - chirms - arms and then ... ( wait for it... ) it unlocks and stays armed....


Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I have tried dc the battery, ( while dc it does lock ) however once hooked up it no longer locks.


It does lock when using the passenger side inside lock, yet not from the driver side.
 

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I would send a note to Kent Woodworth or wait for him to come across this thread. You definately have a wierd one going on.. I have had that happen before but it turned out to be my passenger side door not latching all the way, which I fixed with a little silicone spray on the latch and by cleaning up the extra grease on it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I'll give that a try. It seems like it must be something simple; thanks!
 

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Let us know how that goes, that is a strange one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Everything is clean. No luck thus far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
...Oddly enough, I can lock the car via the pass side door.

Anyone know if a relay or seperate fuse etc that drives the doors seperatly?
 

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...Oddly enough, I can lock the car via the pass side door.

Anyone know if a relay or seperate fuse etc that drives the doors seperatly?

According to the service manual there is one 20amp fuse for all door locks and it's located in slot F24 in the fuse box, which is section D of the fuse blocks, the far right side of the fuse blocks, second row up from the bottom, second fuse from the left...

There are door lock motors for both doors, one in each... It could be a lose wire as well.. You may need to take off the door panel on the inside and use a 12volt test light to see if you have power at the door lock motor... If so then you might have a bad motor or you could have a bad switch as well, you could tell with the same 12Volt test light.. Click your key fob and see if the power comes on and off at the lock motor, etc...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The Car was at the dealer for 4 hours today... Still no answers, they are ordering the locks and motors for the doors to "swap" parts to see what the issue may be....
 

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huh?

From my short experience with Maserati's I am inclined to think this is a software-electrical issue.
It's just wierd how these cars act, I'ts like having a Microsoft piece of software integrated in it that was never intended to have an auto update unless you want to throw money at Maserati dealers who can access the new software database and who represent Bill Gates and his monopoly over the world of sport cars.
 

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It sounds to me like one of the door lock/latch assemblies have given up the ghost, most likely the drivers side. There is also the possibility of the door lock MODULE being defective. The other remote cause could be the adjustments on the latch/striker, lock linkages or door handle (inner/outer) linkages.
Let us know how you make out. Always feel free to PM me if you need immediate assistance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
The dealer is taking their sweet time in getting in the parts.

They have ordered both locks (modules) as they are puzzled which one it is; or if that truly is the problem. The response was that the driver side lock scans the pass side and reports to the ECU as to position. If it cannot confirm the status it 'tries' again. This may repeat up to 10-12 times; ( hence the fast click, click unlock/relock sound)
They charge an hour of labor to remove each, yes each panel.

Here is a quick check that I have found to isolate the problem:
• Roll both windows down

• With your hand first check to see the power actuator works by pressing the button on the inside of the door to get it to latch. Start with pass side and take note if the driver side locks at same time or if only one does. Do the same from the other side. (UNLOCKING after each test)

• Now start with the pass side and use key (toward back of car) take note if opposite side locks.

• Next with remote lock the car and see which inside lock switch clicks open and goes back. The issue is in the opposite module.


What I have found is that each door alone locks via both methods; however the locks do not communicate as they should.
My driver door locks for a split second and the pass side does not report back.
(The piece ordered was for the pass side).


Once in, I'll advise how it works out.


I'm still puzzled how this all of a sudden is 'bad' the car had been in the garage, never ever exposed to rain, no other electrical issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
...Fixed

The doors are back working again thanks to a new pass side door module. Each module "looks" at the other side to confirm the open or closed position. Any communication error between the two causes the instant unlock.
 

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Hello...

I wrote a corresponding thread here about the complete opposite problem - that the car would self lock.

So I manually opened through the passenger side.

Not I have the opposite problem - yours - where the now the car can't lock.

Sooooo...

It's probably the same problem.

O4MAS - so it seems like it's the same problem.

Can you tell me what part I need to fix and/or what part I need to order?

Thanks.

Gene
 

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Also, O4...

Can you give me about what it costs you?

I hate to have to go to the Mas dealer. I wonder if the local guys can fix it???

Gene
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
First time back on in a bit.

I ended up having the pass side door module replaced. The unit ran about 200; labor 300.
 

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Just take it to your dealer.I had the same problem with my qp.I tried 2 cut corners but cldnt, they changed the whole lock system...it cost me abt 4k.
 
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