Maserati Forum banner

61 - 66 of 66 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hey there, great readings! Just wonder - 2005 QP, 83k miles and running daily at the Atlantic harsh weather coast. Rattle> big time but never bugged me ...until I read this and now embarrassed! Where would you connect the hose on the dry sump engine?
Hi, Sorry, I don’t have much experience with the Dry Sump engine, BUT I do believe there is another thread on this forum that deals with these. From memory the dry sump cars have an accumulator mounted under the intake manifold? One guy T-eed an aftermarket accumulator into the line that runs from original accumulator to variator feed line. I’ll see if I can find the thread for you.
Cheers Simon
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
This thread talks about Accumulator install in Dry Sump:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
This thread shows photos of where the Accumulator hoses connect to the head. You could T an aftermarket accumulator in there:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hi,

I read through this thread a month ago and decided to install an oil accumulator as a protective measure against Variator degradation/failure and to lessen cold-start wear.
My 2009 QP S w/83K miles is not exhibiting the telltale Variator rattle and I want to keep it that way.

I studied the three installations reported here and made some small mods.
For my installation:
1) Chose the passenger side front air dam location
2) Angled the accumulator with a steep upward tilt to facilitate purging of potential accumulated air pockets.
3) Used a 36" 4000 psi hydraulic hose with 5/8" JIC (7/8-14 thread) fittings (AN10 equivalent) between the accumulator cylinder and the engine oil gallery inlet
4) Routed the pressure gauge to the engine bay and added a wireless remote oil pressure display.
5) Used a ATM tap on eng compartment fuse F93 to power the solenoid valve
6) Installed a timer to close the valve after start-up - keep valve open long enough to refill/pressurize the accumulator (set mine at 7 minutes).
7) Used a SS solenoid valve rated for 230 pisg.

Pictures are attached.

Note:
I performed several 60 psig overnight leak checks before installing in the vehicle.
JIC flare fittings require significant torque to seal properly.
The working space at the oil inlet gallery is tight - I modified two open end wrenches to work in this space.
The Canton Racing 2 Qt accumulator (4.25x12") fit perfectly and is extremely well made. Its well worth its $220 price tag.
The two brackets are 0.105" (12 Gauge) steel and were simple to drill and bend. They attach to the Canton T-bolt clamps - but at one side only due to space limitations.
I pre-filled the accumulator with 1.5 qts of oil before installation to make sure the first pre-oiling purged all air from the lines.

Thank you to the three Users that provided detailed info on their installations.

Mark
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Hi,

I read through this thread a month ago and decided to install an oil accumulator as a protective measure against Variator degradation/failure and to lessen cold-start wear.
My 2009 QP S w/83K miles is not exhibiting the telltale Variator rattle and I want to keep it that way.

I studied the three installations reported here and made some small mods.
For my installation:
1) Chose the passenger side front air dam location
2) Angled the accumulator with a steep upward tilt to facilitate purging of potential accumulated air pockets.
3) Used a 36" 4000 psi hydraulic hose with 5/8" JIC (7/8-14 thread) fittings (AN10 equivalent) between the accumulator cylinder and the engine oil gallery inlet
4) Routed the pressure gauge to the engine bay and added a wireless remote oil pressure display.
5) Used a ATM tap on eng compartment fuse F93 to power the solenoid valve
6) Installed a timer to close the valve after start-up - keep valve open long enough to refill/pressurize the accumulator (set mine at 7 minutes).
7) Used a SS solenoid valve rated for 230 pisg.

Pictures are attached.

Note:
I performed several 60 psig overnight leak checks before installing in the vehicle.
JIC flare fittings require significant torque to seal properly.
The working space at the oil inlet gallery is tight - I modified two open end wrenches to work in this space.
The Canton Racing 2 Qt accumulator (4.25x12") fit perfectly and is extremely well made. Its well worth its $220 price tag.
The two brackets are 0.105" (12 Gauge) steel and were simple to drill and bend. They attach to the Canton T-bolt clamps - but at one side only due to space limitations.
I pre-filled the accumulator with 1.5 qts of oil before installation to make sure the first pre-oiling purged all air from the lines.

Thank you to the three Users that provided detailed info on their installations.

Mark
Wow! Impressive work!
Happy to see it help someone else
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Wow! Impressive work!
Happy to see it help someone else
Thanks so much Slider429...could not have done it without your work!

BTW - I set the timer now to just 60 secs. My diaphragm valve (as with most) prefers to flow in one direction (I have flow oriented to empty the accumulator).
For the backfill into the accumulator - the valve does not seem to care if the solenoid is energized or not.
Even unenergized It simply pressurizes to max engine oil pressure (~60 psig) and holds it (so it is acting as check valve in the backfill direction) - releasing into the engine only when the solenoid is energized. I have let it sit for a few days and it holds the 60 psig no problem.

Here is the timer I used.

Here is the TPMS I used (on the air side of the accumulator of course).
(I drilled out its alarm).

Here is the kit I used to remote the pressure gauge:

Here is the oil gallery port adapter to 5/8" JIC

AN10 would work fine here too - even easier as 4000 psi JIC is pretty stiff.

Also note this routing is very short and direct - clears everything - no chafing.

Thanks again,
Mark
 
61 - 66 of 66 Posts
Top