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Discussion Starter #1
The blower motor fuse(7.5A on F50?) is blowing when I turn on the fan control. Basic checks and reset of the HVAC give AA00. When I had the dash apart to do a heater core, I found the air recirc motor was not physically connected to the flap. A friend brought me this car, so I did not think to check if the blower worked before I pulled it all apart.
If I disconnect the connector with the single red/yellow wire(under glove box), the fuse does not blow when turning on the fan. The fan obviously does not start.
Besides the parts diagram for the HVAC, does anyone have the HVAC circuit diagram?
Anything else to start checking before I start opening up the dash again?
 

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I'd check the blower fan before you go any further. If turning that on makes the fuse blow, one could logically expect it's stalling and therefore drawing too much current.

C
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Is there a way to remove the blower fan/motor without removing the entire dash?
When I had the dash out, I did clear leaves out of the blower cage. In the process I did spin it, so it's not locked up but I could still believe the motor is bad. I've been looking at the 3200 wiring diagram and it seems relatively close to the 4200's.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Almost have the assembly out, BUT like an older posting stated, the box seems joined to the front side ductwork that flows into the evap/heater coils. I just can't get it to break free but it's loose. I can see a screw at the top that's loose, but it feels like there's just 1 screw left near the front(hard to reach backside).
I was able to remove the glovebox surround - thankfully someone had previously been in here and had left the upper 2 screws off, so that left the bottom 2 and the one next to the glovebox switches. Loosening the 10mm on the right side A-pillar area(under the dash) gave enough wiggle room to get the glovebox surround out of the way. This opened up a good bit of space. I also removed the battery+ terminal on the right side of the blower.
Has anyone actually gotten this thing removed and back together?
 
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I saw your post earlier, but I don't have a great answer..I have put a blower motor in a M138 without pulling the dash..I can't remember excactly how I did it as it was several years ago and hundreds of cars ago...Best I remember I seperated blower motor from the module or base and put it back to together when I got it back in place...Sorry for the lame info....Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Jason - I think my approach tomorrow will be to try separating the blower from the housing. The rear screw is hard to access, but I can feel it now that things are a bit loose. Jason.
 

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For consideration, since I'm not an electrician or Jason or Catman, I've performed this on my Volvo, which does have a faulty blower motor resistor in the 2000-2009 cars. It basically gives up the resistor over time due to the shielding/moisture/corrosion.
While the fault doesn't result in blown fuses, it does result in an inoperable blower motor that needs a new resistor in order to relay the fan speeds. Since resistors usually control the flow of power to a motor, it could be an area to check out while diagnosing. On the Volvo, it's conveniently located on the blower housing and squirrel cage keeping the two joined together.
Good luck with the removal and post some pics of the areas you're referencing if you get a chance. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unless I'm missing something obvious, this is going to be a bear to remove. I removed 2 of the 3 screws holding in the motor/cage. The back one is near impossible because of the access. Might be possible but there might not then be enough room to remove the motor/cage out the bottom.
I found the part holding the plenums together. Way in the back underneath, there's a piece of metal RIVETED to the 2 plastic parts holding them together. What kind of crap is that?
I don't yet have pictures. I just got home and made an attempt at getting the motor out of the bottom but running out of patience. I'm thinking that with the evidence of this being apart before, especially in this area, that that's why the guy sold the car to her.
Still open to suggestions if you have them!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here are a few pics I got last night. I'll see if I can get a pic of the "clip" at the duct work in the back - it seems like a mostly flat piece of steel with 2 metal rivets.
I'm figuring it'll take either removing that metal piece or getting the back screw off the blower motor. I'm wondering if there's a way to break the metal tab - it looks to be well supported with out that piece and easily sealable when putting back together.


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Yeah, it is shitty like I remember..I want to say I dsicharged the A/C so I could move the lines out of the way(foam covered lines on left)...You shouldn't need to mess with any bracket etc...You are only removing the blower motor out the bottom held in with the 3 screws...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Got it out!
Took a different approach. I got a flex cable for a Dremel. Used a cut off wheel and cut through the small strap on the back side. By snaking the cable through things, I could get about a 45 degree angle on the strap. Went through a bunch of wheels because I keep breaking them while removing the cable. Took about 20 minutes of fiddling to get it cut. Once cut, I did a little bit of plastic "adjusting" and the entire box is removed. There was one more hidden screw on the bulkhead side but that was part of the "adjustment".
Didn't start the motor diagnosis yet. Need a break but will update this post when it's solved!
 

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your way out is better. i replaced a blower motor in a gransport a few months ago. was less than ideal coming out and going back in. that metal riveted plate on the back isn't mentioned anywhere, italian surprise.
 
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