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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys, see below pictures, I tried to disconnect the battery (negative side) to reset the radio but now I have the odometer blinking / no park rear sensor / no windows going down. Would you know what to do? I am trying to fully recharge the battery. should i disconnect the ECU cable?

Thank you for the help!!! 🙌🏻
Plant Speedometer Trip computer Automotive design Gauge

Car Vehicle Font Communication Device Trip computer
 

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2011 Granturismo S
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Did you follow the reset procedure in owners manual? If no owners manual the reset procedure is here on forum.
If not I'd disconnect the battery for a few minutes and start over with a fully charged battery.
Don't close trunk til everything is working again.
 

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2011 Granturismo S
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BATTERY COMPONENT SELF-LEARNING IN THE EVENT OF BATTERY DISCONNECTION
1. After connecting the battery negative terminal, the following self-learning operations must be performed to ensure that certain connected devices acknowledge the system again:
2. "EPB FAILURE" AND "PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED" WARNING LIGHTS Each time the battery is reconnected, the “EPB FAILURE” and “PARKING BRAKE ENGAGED” warning lights flash for about 10 seconds and then go off. This is normal and not indicative of a failure.
3. MOTOR DRIVEN THROTTLE SELF-LEARNING Turn the ignition switch to on (KEY ON) and wait at least 15 seconds.
4. After performing the self-learning cycle for the “throttle position”, you must perform the same cycle also for the timing variators (VVT). To do this, start the engine and let it idle for about 20 seconds. 5. CENTRAL DOOR LOCKING LOCK and UNLOCK the doors using the remote control
6. NIT (IT node) and CLOCK Turn the ignition switch to ON (KEY ON)
7. Turn on the IT Node, reset the correct time and date since the IT node looses this information every time the battery is disconnected.
8. FRONT SEATS Following any power cut-out (e.g. after using the battery master switch or if the battery has run flat), check the seats to ensure that they are operating properly when the power supply is available. Perform the following procedures on both seats in the event of a malfunction.
9. When the ignition key is at STOP and the door next to the seat concerned is closed, open the door and start the following procedure within 5 seconds, then complete it within 10 seconds.
10. forward - STOP backward - STOP forward - STOP backward - STOP tilt the seatback fully forward and wait until the seat performs two complete travels (forward and backward). Put the backrest in the normal position. If you need to disconnect the battery, wait at least 30 seconds from the last seat movement. If you disconnect the battery before, you will have to run the initialisation procedure.

I think the following is just info for technicians

11. TGK VALVE STROKE SELF-LEARNING Every time the battery is connected, the acquisition procedure relating to both the water valves is started.
12. After connecting the battery, turn the key to ON and wait at least 15 seconds before starting the engine.
13. The phases for a correct self-learning of the strokes are the the following:
14. complete valve opening (max. 6 seconds)
15. memorisation of the opening position of both valves (950 on the average)
16. complete valve closing (max. 6 seconds)
17. memorisation of the closing position of both valves (50 on the average)
18. memorisation of both valves' stroke (Stroke=Opening-Closing, 900 on the average)
19. stroke analysis if even only one of the 2 strokes is below 500, both strokes are assigned a recovery value of 800 and the procedure is repeated upon the next network wake-up or when the key is turned to ON if both strokes are above 500, the strokes correspond to those calculated and the procedure will not be repeated upon the next network wake-up or when the key is turned to ON
 

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When I replaced my battery just a week or so ago, I didn't realize there was a specific procedure to do so. The only step I remember doing correctly was ignition on for 20 seconds or so for relearn and then off. I then started engine and let it run for 20-30 seconds. Mine had all sorts of blinking warning lights with the car alarm blaring away. What a friggin' circus at 7am. Woke both of my kids lol. The alarm was going off even with the battery disconnected and being run by the internal battery of the siren. The good news is after repeated ignition on ...then off....and idle then off.... ...key unlocked itself....thee system relearned itself back to normal. I'll keep that procedure handy next time and hold my breath.... this car has a mind of its own.

Before I switched out the battery I had done some "spirited" driving and pushed the car pretty good. Car seemed much more throttle responsive after that. Have no idea if thats all in my head, but sure seems that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
@RayJ1 thanks for the feedback. I checked all the fuses also in case…nothing abnormal. I am trying to charge fully the battery with battery tenders while keeping the battery disconnected from the car. Let’s see… if not I will go to the dealer tomorrow for a poxy alignment reset of the CAN with the Maserati Dagnosi tool
 

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When I replaced my battery just a week or so ago, I didn't realize there was a specific procedure to do so. The only step I remember doing correctly was ignition on for 20 seconds or so for relearn and then off. I then started engine and let it run for 20-30 seconds. Mine had all sorts of blinking warning lights with the car alarm blaring away. What a friggin' circus at 7am. Woke both of my kids lol. The alarm was going off even with the battery disconnected and being run by the internal battery of the siren. The good news is after repeated ignition on ...then off....and idle then off.... ...key unlocked itself....thee system relearned itself back to normal. I'll keep that procedure handy next time and hold my breath.... this car has a mind of its own.

Before I switched out the battery I had done some "spirited" driving and pushed the car pretty good. Car seemed much more throttle responsive after that. Have no idea if thats all in my head, but sure seems that way.
The process is not exactly required as you've found out, but certainly can't hurt.

And yes, it was in your head

C
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
A bit of an update; Fully charging the battery didn't help so I went to the car dealer and they could not reperform a proxy alignment with the MDVCI tool as the Parking sensor module was still showing KO. They tried to replace the module but still was not working (+ window not going down and mirrors not moving...).

This is crazy as before the battery disconnect both the windows/mirrors and the park sensor were working! and I am sure I didn't grilled something by just disconnecting the battery... Now seems there could be a bit of water in the trunk, to be confirmed they are checking... but still even with that it was working before... I don't understand and I am clueless...

I asked if driving the car would change that and they told me no... I will still have the odometer blinking and the windows/parking sensor not working...
 

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2011 Granturismo S
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Was watching Car Issues with Tyler Hoover and the Mr Wizard auto repair shop. I think it was Tyler’s 458 Ferrari that had been sitting in the shop with all sorts of electrical problems for over a year. They replaced the battery and voila! All fixed.
You mentioned trying to fully charge the battery, is it old or low? I remember my auto shop teacher decades ago telling me if you couldn’t pick the battery up by the cables, they’re not making a good connection.
Is this the Maserati dealer not being able to fix it or an independent?
 
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Occasionally stuff can get damaged with a battery disconnection..The flashing odometer is from the network being down obviously..You not gonna be able to be able to do a proxi alignment till you get all the modules back online... They'll have to figure out why the PDC module is offline..You need good power and ground plus the connection to the communication Bus...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
A bit of update, went to the dealer, they took 6hrs to identify that it was due to a relai and oxydated fuse + a proxy alignment with the tool... and it costed me 1210$ (ca. 195 per hour + material) what a joke! 💩😐 I saw the oxydated fuse before but thought should be fine (these are the big fuses in the trunk)... I didn't check the relai... I should have done it myself (or at another place than the official dealer!). Lesson learned I guess...
 

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A bit of update, went to the dealer, they took 6hrs to identify that it was due to a relai and oxydated fuse + a proxy alignment with the tool... and it costed me 1210$ (ca. 195 per hour + material) what a joke! 💩😐 I saw the oxydated fuse before but thought should be fine (these are the big fuses in the trunk)... I didn't check the relai... I should have done it myself (or at another place than the official dealer!). Lesson learned I guess...
$1200.00 is a bunch of money....but finding electrical issues isn't always easy, and that oxidated fuse may have looked ok to the tech as well. Not sure if another shop would have found it any faster or it would have cost you any less. Sometimes the obvious is not so obvious. She's up and running.

First time I scanned my car I had 23 codes....That's a bunch....replaced the battery... replaced two parking sensors, wheel acceleration sensor, interior light fuse, dome light and cleaned a bunch of contacts...now I'm down to four codes. Those are all related to an aftermarket installed amp and subwoofer where wiring is suspect. My limited mechanical experience with the car has been fun!
 
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