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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. I need some help please.

I have 2007 QP Sports GT Automatica.

I am not sure if this is a design flaw or there is something wrong with the boot key tumbler...

Basically, I have been having trouble with starting due to under-voltage for a few weeks now. Couldn't start it at all this morning. All kinds of warnings came up. The battery was last replaced 4-5 years ago. So it's probably not holding any charge and needs a replacement.

The problem is, I cannot get inside the boot... it sounded like the boot latch may have "partially" unlocked when I pressed the keyfob but didn't have enough juice to finish the operation. And that was with the last ounce of battery. Now it won't respond at all.

One might think: "Ok, this is easy. Just use the key to open the boot." But my key in the boot lock only inserts about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way and it feels like there is a "plate" of some sort blocking it from entering any further. I am not sure if there is an electrically operated "blocking plate" inside the lock (if so, what a terrible idea) or if something is stuck inside the tumbler.

My key still opens the car doors as normal.

My question to the fellow members are:
1. Is this normal behaviour for the boot lock for our car?
2. What do I do now to try to open the boot to replace the battery?? Is there a way to charge the battery from inside the car or connect a secondary battery to something accessible or is there a physical boot open latch inside the car other than the electric button?
 
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Use the pic I posted in this thread to apply power to the car to release the trunk.
 
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The key should go fully in, maybe use some wd-40 to get the lock going. Than press the trunk down and turn the key, there is a continuing spring load on the lock so once you feel movement in the key pull the trunk lid up. If that doesn’t work follow Jason’s tips on how to repower the car.
 

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When nothing else works...you can also get into the trunk by removing the license plate & fancy frame (if you have one), then pull down on the trim piece above the license plate containing the illumination lights - it will still have wires connected, be careful not to scratch anything, and use a tool to push on the spring loaded latch mechanism to open the trunk.
 
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Fairly common problem on cars that have a key tumbler....People never use the thing just using the FOB all the time and the barrel can freeze up..Spray some WD-40 up into the thing and let it sit overnight...Try again in the morning...Jason
 
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Hi everyone. I need some help please.

I have 2007 QP Sports GT Automatica.

I am not sure if this is a design flaw or there is something wrong with the boot key tumbler...

Basically, I have been having trouble with starting due to under-voltage for a few weeks now. Couldn't start it at all this morning. All kinds of warnings came up. The battery was last replaced 4-5 years ago. So it's probably not holding any charge and needs a replacement.

The problem is, I cannot get inside the boot... it sounded like the boot latch may have "partially" unlocked when I pressed the keyfob but didn't have enough juice to finish the operation. And that was with the last ounce of battery. Now it won't respond at all.

One might think: "Ok, this is easy. Just use the key to open the boot." But my key in the boot lock only inserts about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way and it feels like there is a "plate" of some sort blocking it from entering any further. I am not sure if there is an electrically operated "blocking plate" inside the lock (if so, what a terrible idea) or if something is stuck inside the tumbler.

My key still opens the car doors as normal.

My question to the fellow members are:
1. Is this normal behaviour for the boot lock for our car?
2. What do I do now to try to open the boot to replace the battery?? Is there a way to charge the battery from inside the car or connect a secondary battery to something accessible or is there a physical boot open latch inside the car other than the electric button?
HI,

I had the same issue, (battery dead and had to use the key), however, my key did open the trunk. Here is an idea for you. They sell those emergency charges that are self-contained and plug into the cigarette lighter socket; which supposedly charges the battery. Using one of those may work. You are correct in thinking that the trunk is half open and there is something preventing the key from inserting completely.

Good luck . . .
 

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Here's what my issue was the the cable that hooks into the lock mechanism was detached. BUT I re attached the cable and the key would manually open the lock but only when the truck was already opened.

When I closed the trunck fully the key was stuck solid and would not manually release the lock. Again I'd open the trunk and the key would turn freely.

Time to replace lock mechanism.
131125
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks for all the suggestions, guys.

Jason was spot on. I was able to easily power on the trunk lid by accessing the electrical connections under the dash near the steering wheel: pull down the tray lid, remove two thumbscrews, pull down the whole tray to expose the fuse section, touch the positive wire and the negative chassis with some metal gardening pins powered by a 12V jump starter (used as battery, not to jump start), and then press the trunk open button. The whole thing took less than 10 minutes. See photo attached.

Jeffery was also correct. There must have been some sort of blanking mechanism that prevents the key from inserting all the way in if the trunk latching mechanism is stuck half open/shut. Once I got the trunk open, I can easily insert the key into the trunk tumbler. Bad design.
131231
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm... the same thing happened again. Only this time, I am unable to open the trunk by powering the car through the two pins under the dash like shown in the previous photo.... Why is that? Is my battery "more dead" this time...? I only parked for 14min (with accessories on, albeit) after a 50min drive...

I will charge up my jumpstarter and try the two pins under the dash method again in the morning...

If that fails, is there a way to jumpstart the car from a fuse box or something in the front trunk if I remove some of the plastic covers?
 

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In addition to what you have already discovered, there must be a major positive lead under the hood somewhere to power different devices there. You should be able to provide power there and or charge the system enough to open the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
How it eventually worked:
1. Completely drained battery, measuring 9V, can't even lock or unlock the doors electrically, unable to open rear bootlid
2. Hooked up a jump starter battery for 5min to the pins under the dash - able to lock, unlock doors, power move seats, operate windows, but unable to open rear bootlid
3. Eventually all power drained again despite the parallel jump starter battery, unable to even lock doors electrically, so I left it there overnight
4. Tried again the next day with a different jump starter battery for 2min, able to lock and unlock doors electrically again now, but still not opening the lid, I gave up again, left the car overnight again
5. On the third day, all by itself, with no further external jump starter assistance, the door unlocked electrically, and the bootlid opened electrically
6. Jump started the car

Unbelievable, Maserati, unbelievable...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I am just posting here again for completeness and posterity. I did replace the battery after last year's incident. And encountered another drained battery today. But that's from installing a new Android/Carplay headunit that goes into "sleep" rather than power-off, and having left a OBD2 wireless reader plugged in for 2 days. So that's probably what drained the battery this time.

Anyway, I was able to sort it out much quicker this time.

Multimeter showed 9V only. I hooked up the jumpstarter battery to the two connection points under the dash. It immediately showed 11.98V. The trick now, is to close the door, lock the car with the key button, and then unlock it. And then try to unlock the trunk. It works straight away

For some reason, once the battery goes under-volt, the car disables the trunk unlocking function, unless you power cycle your doors with the voltage back high. This would disable the "lock-out" on the trunk lock, and enable its unlocking....

At 10V, the doors actually can power lock and unlock, but that doesn't "reset" the trunk "lock out".

You must power lock and then unlock the doors at 12V, for the trunk "lock out" "feature" to release the trunk.

And if you think as long as it's 12V, the trunk should just open electrically with the dash button or your keyfob, why does it matter if you first power cycle the doors? Well, you would be wrong!

Errr..... MASERATI!!!!!!!! I want my time back over these useless "features" you've built into the car.
 
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There are also instructions around here to manually get into the trunk by removing the trim pieces around the license plate, Not hard at all 2 out of 10 in terms of difficulty. Takes about 15 minutes. What I found is many of the lock mechanisms either get detached or straight broken so the key won't work.
 
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