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Discussion Starter #1
2005 Mas Spyder with Auditorium 200 system (with sub box)


Well I was tired of shitty speakers and an intermittent radio! Instead of trying to keep this thing running I am replacing everything. I haven't totally decided if I am going to just shit-can the Infotainment System, but I am definitely relocating it and replacing with something better as far as sound.


Here is the list of components that are being installed:
Alpine iLX-007 Carplay Head Unit
Rockford Fosgate R600x5 5-Channel Amp
Focal Utopia Be 13WS Sub - Fits in original sub housing
Focal ISS170 Component Front Speakers
Focal Performance PC130 Coaxial Rear Deck Speakers


Here is my issue....
I started with replacing the speakers first as it was just plug and play or as I thought it would be. Since my Mas headunit doesn't put out sound (or I should say when it wants to -- and it hasn't lately). I figured I would just use the original connectors from the speakers and solder to leads from my new speakers. All went well until I started trying to power up the speakers through the amp and new head unit.


From all the threads here, I was able to determine all the lines coming from the ISO connector on the factory headunit in the center console to the original amp in the trunk seemed correct and follows the standard ISO-Spec for speaker outputs -- 8 small gauge wires (4 pairs).


The TROUBLE appears to be the 8 wires (larger gauge - 4 pairs) coming from the original trunk mount amp to the speakers. 5-Channel System with only 4 channels coming from the amp. AND a bunch of wires that don't make sense.


Here is what I found for the output of the Amp (numbers are connector pin numbers as shown on the connector and here in another thread):
10 and 18 - yellow/yellow-blk
11 and 19 white/white-blk
13 and 21 green/green-blk
14 and 22 gray/gray-blk
None of these go straight to Front or Rear speakers with these colors!!


The only thing that Ohms out directly are the green pair and gray pair that actually goes straight to the Subwoofer -- for some reason there is a coaxial type speaker for a Sub.


Here is what worked so far:
Rear Deck Left - 10 and 18 - yellow/yellow-blk
Read Deck Right - 11 and 19 white/white-blk
I used 13 and 21 green/green-blk for the Sub




OK RESET -- Disconnect all speakers and start over -- Here is the deal ------------------
If you have this system with Front Speakers (Component sub and tweeters), Rear Deck Coaxial, and Single Sub, Maserati did some really stupid stuff. The FRONT DOOR and REAR DECK speakers are tied together on left and right front speakers from the Amp, and the SUB has the rear two channels connected to one SUB. What a stupid way to wire a sound system. I have only had the car for a couple years now and only drive it occasionally. The system never sounded that great (when it came on), and I knew I had at least a blown sub.


My solution:
I cut the Sub wires and ran them to the Rear Deck Speaker as these were the Gray pair and Green Pair from the amp and everything I find shows these as the Rear Speaker output. I kept the existing Front Speaker outputs (White pair and Yellow pair) set up for the Front Door speakers as I didn't want to run those wires. Finally I ran a new set of wires to the Sub. Now I have true 5-Channel system.


What a freaking nightmare to figure out what was going on. It wasn't until I disconnected all of the speaker could I truly ohm out the cables and see how everything was connected. You should see how many pieces this car is in!


Now to reassemble and start to finish my new dash.
 

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Wow - that is one hell of a parts list. Personally, I probably would have just scrapped the rears altogether, but I have no doubt that what you have setup will sound nothing short of fantastic.

In reading I could not figure out what the question was. It looks like you have things pretty well sorted at this point. I too took note to the fact that the "rear" outputs control only the sub. "Stupid" was the only word I could conjure up for that.

I would love to know what you think of the sub. I will eventually be looking to upgrade, and while $500 for a sub is a tough pill to swallow, it may be easier (read: less stressful) then modifying the sub box to fit a 6.5". Also, upon first glance it appears that the factory sub box has some sort of vent on the drivers side - can you confirm?

BTW - that bezel looks amazing. Any chance you could make the specs available so others can have one 3D printed?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Not that many options out there for a small sub. Two channels going to the Sub, which is actually a coaxial speaker, so those are probably more popular in that size. Yes the Sub Box is vented on the Drivers Side. I need to measure the volume of the box before putting it back together, as the Focal Sub calls for a sealed box and give the volume. First glance it seems to be about the correct size but is vented.

Car is still all in pieces, as I am working on a few things. Still working on getting the plastics just right. I decided to just carbon fiber wrap the plastic 3D printed bezel. Will have to carbon fiber wrap the console pieces too to make them match.

Adding a backup camera too, as the head unit is already set up for it.

Adding USB Charging and a 110V receptacle to the ashtray (well that is the plan).

Definitely wasn't expecting to do this much work...
 

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Edwin. Looks great. You have depth for the alpine unit? I'm in the middle of an older kenwood install, but may switch gears for a more modern system. Would you be willing to share your solid model of the bezel? Fil.
 

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Edwin. Looks great. You have depth for the alpine unit? I'm in the middle of an older kenwood install, but may switch gears for a more modern system. Would you be willing to share your solid model of the bezel? Fil.

No it doesn't have the depth -- very close though!!! I am just finishing the Bezel so a true test fit to see how close I am is a couple days away.


I tried locating the board to board connectors for the iLX-007 but failed. I was going to re-position the output board to make room...but not being able to find the manufacturer of the connectors kills that idea. So what I have planed for now, is to desolder most of the items in the back and wire pigtail RCA, and other input/output connectors to give me the space. I will also cut down the heatsink (using an amp so the head unit shouldn't need that large of a heatsink for the speaker outs) and desolder the board amps to put them on an angle. I will also have to reposition a few components.


The CAD file....hmmm...That is a whole other story. I haven't done much with surfaces before this little venture. Well they are not perfect but it does the trick I guess. You guys are very helpful here, so sure I could share them. It is a left and right half because my 3D printer size restrictions.


Learning Carbon Fiber Vacuum Bagging was on the agenda for this weekend. Not perfect but pretty good for a first try.
 

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Wow. I'm not so sure that I am up for disassembling the alpine unit. I may be able to help you with the carbon fiber though. My friend with the 3D printer is an advanced composites design engineer and has a carbon prototype shop. He is in The office next to me and we share a common shop. I've already dragged him in on my radio upgrade project. PM me if you want to talk to him. I am also thinking of tapping into the line from the NIT to the display and converting the RGB to composit so I can see the original Maserati screen if I want. Fil.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Working on the Cup Holder and the NAV Plastic this week and next hoping to have it complete by the end of the holidays. Hopefully I will put together a full list of what I did for this conversion. The pic below is a part I made to replace the Ashtray lid. It has a AUX input, Mic input (phone and Siri), and A/V input, plus powered USB for charging and for the iPhone input to the Radio -- Original lighter installed too. Negative - none of this will be under a door to protect it, but sacrifices had to be made.
 

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Working on the Cup Holder and the NAV Plastic this week and next hoping to have it complete by the end of the holidays. Hopefully I will put together a full list of what I did for this conversion. The pic below is a part I made to replace the Ashtray lid. It has a AUX input, Mic input (phone and Siri), and A/V input, plus powered USB for charging and for the iPhone input to the Radio -- Original lighter installed too. Negative - none of this will be under a door to protect it, but sacrifices had to be made.
Well done sir...most impressive!
 

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No it doesn't have the depth -- very close though!!! I am just finishing the Bezel so a true test fit to see how close I am is a couple days away.


I tried locating the board to board connectors for the iLX-007 but failed. I was going to re-position the output board to make room...but not being able to find the manufacturer of the connectors kills that idea. So what I have planed for now, is to desolder most of the items in the back and wire pigtail RCA, and other input/output connectors to give me the space. I will also cut down the heatsink (using an amp so the head unit shouldn't need that large of a heatsink for the speaker outs) and desolder the board amps to put them on an angle. I will also have to reposition a few components.


The CAD file....hmmm...That is a whole other story. I haven't done much with surfaces before this little venture. Well they are not perfect but it does the trick I guess. You guys are very helpful here, so sure I could share them. It is a left and right half because my 3D printer size restrictions.


Learning Carbon Fiber Vacuum Bagging was on the agenda for this weekend. Not perfect but pretty good for a first try.
Nice work on the molds!

Completely off topic, but it looks like you could have taken that photo in my house. I have the same rug and it sits on a Brazilian Cherry wood floor, which is what yours looks like. Maybe we are alter-egos.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Here are the two last pieces to be wrapped... I filled and used a belt sander to remove the grooves/grille detail to the NAV plastic. From what I read we don't really use the NAV CD anyway so I filled it and the Card slot too. I originally was just going to remove the NAV and Infotainment Display but I didn't find anything on how to turn on the hazard without the display, so I just moved it so I could have that operation. I just saw a post on where the flasher relay is...I could probably just install a switch now. Anyone have info on installing a hazard flasher switch?
 

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Here are the two last pieces to be wrapped... I filled and used a belt sander to remove the grooves/grille detail to the NAV plastic. From what I read we don't really use the NAV CD anyway so I filled it and the Card slot too. I originally was just going to remove the NAV and Infotainment Display but I didn't find anything on how to turn on the hazard without the display, so I just moved it so I could have that operation. I just saw a post on where the flasher relay is...I could probably just install a switch now. Anyone have info on installing a hazard flasher switch?
You do good work. I look forward to seeing the finished project.
 

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This is awesome! Nice work.

Edwin, can you tell me what 3D printer you are using and your opinion of it? I am looking into getting one to do some projects and prototype stuff in the future but I know there are a lot that have terrible support or issues in general.

Thanks and keep it up, looks great.

Ben
 

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This is awesome! Nice work.

Edwin, can you tell me what 3D printer you are using and your opinion of it? I am looking into getting one to do some projects and prototype stuff in the future but I know there are a lot that have terrible support or issues in general.

Thanks and keep it up, looks great.

Ben


Ben,
I used a uPrint SE+ for this piece, which is our second 3D printer (step up from Makerbot). Definitely better as it has a heated chamber and two materials (model and support). My experience is 3D printers are as good as your pocketbook. Makerbot $2K and uPrint SE+ $15K. It isn't my personal printer... Not sure if that helps but feel free to ask questions.

I designed everything in Solidworks then saved as an SLT file to import to the printer. Saying that brings up the subject of how you create your 3D files. You have to have software to design the 3D models...there are free ones out there but I have Solidworks so that is what I use.
 

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Ben,
I used a uPrint SE+ for this piece, which is our second 3D printer (step up from Makerbot). Definitely better as it has a heated chamber and two materials (model and support). My experience is 3D printers are as good as your pocketbook. Makerbot $2K and uPrint SE+ $15K. It isn't my personal printer... Not sure if that helps but feel free to ask questions.

I designed everything in Solidworks then saved as an SLT file to import to the printer. Saying that brings up the subject of how you create your 3D files. You have to have software to design the 3D models...there are free ones out there but I have Solidworks so that is what I use.
Awesome, thanks for the info!

I have Solidworks as well so that is good to know what files can work.

I was looking at the XYZprinting DaVinci and Robo3D just because I want a decent envelope size for some larger part prints but obviously there are drawbacks to both models. Since I'm just getting going I don't want to break the bank(but don't want crap either :) )

I may have to ping you on the vacuum bagging also, many things I'd like to learn, so little time.

look forward to seeing more progress.

Ben
 

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Bezel

Hi, I read your message on the Alpine ILX 007 and the components you used. Obviously you have a good electrical background particularly dealing with ohms law. My question to you is where can I find the bezel for the Alpine ILX 007? First and foremost would be my biggest problem which is will the Alpine ILX 007 fit in the double din space?also, can I modify the existing bezel or how would I go about getting one that would fit the Alpine ILX 007

Truly grateful,

James HAYES
561-324-1223
[email protected]
 

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Hi, I read your message on the Alpine ILX 007 and the components you used. Obviously you have a good electrical background particularly dealing with ohms law. My question to you is where can I find the bezel for the Alpine ILX 007? First and foremost would be my biggest problem which is will the Alpine ILX 007 fit in the double din space?also, can I modify the existing bezel or how would I go about getting one that would fit the Alpine ILX 007

Truly grateful,

James HAYES
561-324-1223
[email protected]

James,
This definitely wasn't a small task...
1. I selected the smallest depth (quality) radio that I could find.
2. I designed in Solidworks a 3D model of the bezel - Had to learn how to work with 3D surfaces - Thank you Youtube.
3. I 3D printed the bezel and since I knew I couldn't match the color of the paint Mas used, I figured it would be best to Carbon Fiber Wrap the part.
4. Due to depth limitations of the console of the Mas, I had to modify everything to do with the outputs of the radio (see picture). I converted the input/output connectors to wired leads, so there would be no bulky connectors out the back of the radio. I also had to machine down the aluminum heatsink to get more clearance. I was using an external amp so I figured it wouldn't generate much heat.


Several more steps later.... it was completed.

The bezel I made was made to fit the Alpine radio exactly - I am not sure it will fit other Double Din radios, as I made the plastic match the exact edges and screw locations of the Alpine.
 

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Yes to both questions...
The Solidworks file is pretty hard to adjust (make changes) as I was learning as I made the file, but I would be happy to share.
To print a bezel and add the brass insets - I would say $100 just to cover material and my time.
 

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Yes to both questions...
The Solidworks file is pretty hard to adjust (make changes) as I was learning as I made the file, but I would be happy to share.
To print a bezel and add the brass insets - I would say $100 just to cover material and my time.
PM'd you :wink2:
 
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