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I did what jason mentioned above and marked each bolt with a paint pen afterwards, I was actually under it last weekend replacing a cracked under panel, I took a look and all my marks are still good
 
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That is what we do in the shop to make sure we don't miss one...If you miss one they will all come loose eventually....Paint pens are good...That is why your car has yellow swipe marks all over everything from the factory...People can make mistakes....J
 

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Discussion Starter #23
When I am ready to tighten thing, I have the torque specs,.

The gun is 1/2. I have 1/2 to a 3/8 adapter. I will get 13 @ 1/2 as you recommend.

I am lost with the paint pen. Is the the pen to label because the screws get back to same place? Or to not loose them? Or to mark them where they tighten to the hub/diff and land them to the same hole?
Btw the mechanics told me to use girls nail polish before I start.
 
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Nail polish will work if you have some in your tool box... :p You are marking the bolt to make sure each one is tighten with a nail polish mark...After you tighten it...You mark it as tight with your nail polish so you don't miss tightening one as you rotate the axle around...Your entire extension needs to be 1/2 inch drive....No adapters and all that BS....A 1/2" ratchet with a long 1/2" extension with a 1/2" 13mm 12 point socket...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I have a ton of nail polish..lol It makes more sense now, I was going to mark it before I take it off and torque all of it back to match the paint mark and count the threads on all. My friend is a no show today...again. I will just take it off tomorrow.

I will definitely go out and get the 1/2 inch. Can I at least use 1 swivel?

My plan is to take 1 axle off hoping to isolate the noise. I called the dealer yesterday, and the service manager was really nice, he basically said if I can manage to get the bearings off in the diff, there should be some numbers on them, then google them, or send them to a bearing shop and have them match it up.

Does this also mean that the axle is done because grease is coming out?
 
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Honestly, you are making this harder then needed...Again...You need to make sure all the axle shafts bolts and driveshafts are tight first off...You can use swivel, but straight would be better..I'm not sure how we got to tearing the diff apart and replacing the bearings???? Bearings don't click or knock l like that...They have a continuous sound...If you want my help then please stay on the reservation and follow the steps provided... Make sure the driveshaft and axles are tight...that is step one...J
 

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The paint mark's are to mark that the bolts are torqued, I make a line from the head of the bolt to the drive shaft, that way if the bolt ever loosens you can visually see it because the paint line is broken. Also doubles as a check that I know I torqued the bolt
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I torqued every bolt and the
Honestly, you are making this harder then needed...Again...You need to make sure all the axle shafts bolts and driveshafts are tight first off...You can use swivel, but straight would be better..I'm not sure how we got to tearing the diff apart and replacing the bearings???? Bearings don't click or knock l like that...They have a continuous sound...If you want my help then please stay on the reservation and follow the steps provided... Make sure the driveshaft and axles are tight...that is step one...J

I was able to tighten every single bolt. Knocking still occurs. I am able to move the wheel forward and backward (like an inch because the car is in park) and I can hear the same knocking noise. What do you recommend next?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
As expected, Jason's (and mich) direction lead to answers. See pictures. According to the shop manual it looks like the diff axle hub tooth, might even be the driveshaft hub tooth.
Where do I go from here? Replace the whole diff? Have a shop look at it?
 

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Looks like part of the ring gear broke..Pretty shitty and not common...That unit is not rebuild-able in the least...Just look for a good used unit....Jason
 

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Damn, that sucks ! Sorry to see. One would expect maybe just hairline metal shavings, but a chunk like that is discouraging, to say the least . And as uncommon as it may be, no clue what can cause jt .. I’m sure many here do quite a bit of “ spirited “ driving , sudden WOT accelerating , even off the line takeoffs , but don’t recall seeing posts with this issue and degree of damage .. Again, bummer to learn this can happen.
 
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You very rarely see any car break a ring and pinion on a street car...Probably, just a flaw when it was made...They cast the thing, machine it, and then heat treat...The metal is hard as hell and will shatter a punch if you try to hit it with one...Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I found eBay has two for part number 270982 for around 1600 and new is about 2600. I see so many crashed GT and I can't believe there are only two on eBay.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Part number is 270982 followed by 3516 713 02526 1H.
I will call around tomorrow and look for a used diff.

It took about an hour and half to remove all the small stuff like tie rod, shield, and muffler.
Tomorrow I will hang the axle and start taking it off. Can I leave the car in park and remove the bolts on the axle and drive shaft? I don't want to put stress on other components like the transmission.
Quick Jack made life easy.

My mechanic/friends didn't make it yet, he had some legit issues. I really think an average person can probably do this if they take their time. Hardest part was finding the issue. .

I started it up with out the mufflers, it wasn't bad at all :devilish:
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Damn, that sucks ! Sorry to see. One would expect maybe just hairline metal shavings, but a chunk like that is discouraging, to say the least . And as uncommon as it may be, no clue what can cause jt .. I’m sure many here do quite a bit of “ spirited “ driving , sudden WOT accelerating , even off the line takeoffs , but don’t recall seeing posts with this issue and degree of damage .. Again, bummer to learn this can happen.
It's life, things break.
I was at a standstill, traction was off, then I launched for literally 4 seconds. This is like the 3rd time I ever did this. I really didn't expect this. I thought these cars have somewhat of a bullet proof drivetrain.
 
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