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Can't help with torque settings, a internet search for bolt tightening might help. I like to torque bolts down the German way Good-N-Tight!

Curious, are you going to be replacing the ball joints on the other side?
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Can't help with torque settings, a internet search for bolt tightening might help. I like to torque bolts down the German way Good-N-Tight!

Curious, are you going to be replacing the ball joints on the other side?
Haha, I’d not heard of that. If all else fails I’ll try the German way.

I’m not committing to changing the other ball joints but I'm certainly going to check their condition and make a judgement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
Some new boots came through the post today and I managed to slide one of them over the bushing and onto the ball joint (it did need heating up in a cup of water to make it stretchy enough).
Tire Automotive tire Tread Wheel Wood

New boot on the joint ready for greasing:
Material property Automotive tire Gas Writing implement Office supplies

All greased and wired up. You can see i damaged the bushing trying to pull it off... I'm hoping I can hit it back into shape or that it just pulls back into shape when it all goes back together.
Handwriting Metal Musical instrument Handbell Fashion accessory

Edit: Please note, I have wired the top and bottom of the rubber boot but I have been advised caution with this approach especially on the front suspension where the pin needs to pivot freely in the boot. One suggestion is to leave the small end free.
 

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I'm sure you are right, but I do like a challenge. I've got the broken stud out and it appears to be a fairly simple double ended stud (M8 / M10) with a 10mm diameter shank in the middle. How hard can it be to find one of those??
Any machine shop will be able to turn one out for you for not much if you can't find it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Right, I have a couple of options to replace the stud:
1) a remake - I can do it in a "silver steel" / tool steel as per the photo below (middle) or get a shop to do it in a more exotic material,
2) the closest production stud I can find is a rocker cover stud for a VW beetle (on the right).

Any opinions? My feeling is to go with a remake, the reason being that I think the stud needs to transfer a large shear load but small tensile load and the production stud doesn't have the 10mm dia shank to transfer the shear load. Happy to be corrected though.

Finger Nail Thumb Gas Wrist
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Well the car is all back together with the re-made stud whilst I wait for an OEM part, yay! Now i can get on with looking at the other 3 corners :)
Automotive tire Hood Motor vehicle Light Automotive fuel system

Only slight concern from the final assembly is that I could not squeeze one of the spacers back in to position - I wonder if the new control arm bushing is slightly wider than the old one. Any guidance for how to get the spacer in? Its the spacer indicated in the image below:
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive fuel system Automotive exterior Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Well I'm pleased to say that the other corners were no where near as bad as the Front Right: Front Left needed the top dust cover replacing and some rust removal/painting and the back suspension seems fine. Phew.
Got everything back together today and went for a short drive to shakedown the new components: all fine so far. So now its just finish off the wheel and replace that stud.

Front left top ball joint broken dust cover:
Gesture Finger Plumbing Thumb Automotive wheel system

Hand Flash photography Automotive tire Headgear Plumbing fixture

New one (slightly shorter than the original, but I cant see that being a problem):
Automotive tire Camera lens Gas Personal protective equipment Cameras & optics

Front left lower ball joint top up grease:
Automotive tire Automotive lighting Automotive wheel system Fender Tire

Automotive tire Gas Rim Cylinder Auto part

Back dust covers LHS:
Automotive tire Black Rim Automotive wheel system Gas

Tire Automotive tire Light Motor vehicle Automotive design

Back dust covers RHS:
Automotive tire Light Gear Automotive design Tread

Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Automotive exterior

So those back ones can wait for another day :) .
 

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This thread is a bit old but I was following it because of the seriousness of this kind of failure. Maserati, and not to their credit, mount the load-carrying lower ball joint inverted compared to any other car I've looked at. I've copied one of the OP's images
Hood Automotive tire Bumper Car Motor vehicle

The problem here is that the suspension load is carried on the control arm rim with the ball stud hole in it. (This may take a bit of study). So now, when the gaiter fails, as it eventually will, water will gather above the ball and, if nothing else, the ball will rust and become abrasive. This will wear out the rim and the ball joint will fail as it did here. There have also been failures in the UK of cracking of the arms at the bushing end so that's another problem.

So the bottom line is that if someone should be building an after market part it should be the lower arm of the front suspension. If this part fails at speed it could be your life. At a minimum check and silicone spray the gaiter's often. Prayer might be useful too.

P.S. This is the recent Ghibli suspension and you can see they've got the ball joint right. Eurospares | Maserati Ghibli (2014-2016) Ghibli 3.0 Petrol V6 2WD 410HP (USA) 06 10 1 FRONT SUSPENSION Could a part like be made to fit a 4200?
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Hi @Tony H thanks for the comments. I'm interested in what you mentioned about spraying the gaiters with silicone, does that protect them?

Also I wonder if you meant to post on another thread as I think you have posted one of my images back into the thread I started?
 

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Hi @Tony H thanks for the comments. I'm interested in what you mentioned about spraying the gaiters with silicone, does that protect them?

Also I wonder if you meant to post on another thread as I think you have posted one of my images back into the thread I started?
Silicone keeps the rubber soft so it doesn't crack. It helps, but age is still a problem.

I did reuse one of your images to clarify what I was saying. I thought about a separate post but without your travails my comments would have no context.

As I mentioned the front lower A arms are a weak point on these cars. The A arms are now getting expensive and hard to find. A simpler solution than building new A arms is to replace the ball joint with an aftermarket one. You need what's called a "hanging ball joint" and you'll need to do some machining.
 
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