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Discussion Starter #1
Didn't know how to post the pics on the 'Photos' Website, so here goes:

- Tubi
- Lowered Suspension
- Dashboard in Interior Color
- Aftermarket Amp and Subwoofer
- Slightly Tinted Side Windows
- Carbon Fibre Trim on Doors and Steering Wheel

Cheers,

Dietrich
 

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Interesting pircutres. Have the same color car (outside).
Was the car lowered by screwing down the mounting points or by using shorter springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
(1) Not quite sure how the lowering was being done but the service guy said it was quite easy (so I am assuming that just a few screws needed to be adjusted). Alignment however needed to be performed after lowering the car.

(2) Yes, I lik the 15 spokes, even though seem partial to the 7 spokes. I guess that's the beauty of personal opinion.

Cheers,

-D
 

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It sounds like there are 2 ways to lower the car, and both can only be done if you have Skyhook:
1) Turning screws
2) Replacing the springs with sport springs made by Leo Nardo

Leo Nardo is a new aftermarket accessory company specifically for Maseratis based out of Germany (I believe). They offer the sport springs, a metal grille, a sporty front spoiler, and aftermarket wheels. They also offer an exhaust and a performance ECU chip. The North American distributor is P-Factor, and CarrozzeriaDesign in Irvine, CA is a dealer.
 

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04cambio said:
It sounds like there are 2 ways to lower the car, and both can only be done if you have Skyhook:
1) Turning screws
2) Replacing the springs with sport springs made by Leo Nardo
Precisely which screws are 'turned'? I've often seen this action referenced, but with little detail.

If you look at the shocks, they mount flush to the body underside at the top and through an eyebolt at the bottom. The only adjustment I see is the spring base (adjusted by turning with a "G" wrench) on the coil-over shock. If you adjust that spring base, though, I would think you would change damping and rebound dramatically.
 

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I just had mine lowered and saw the threaded core inside the coilovers. They just dialed down the 2 locking nuts but needed a special tool. Better to have it professionally done. It took 2 and sometimes 3 guys to work on it about an hour to lower just the rear. Wheels needed to come off to work on it. Paid $100. Didn't change the ride at all that I can tell. The rear was 1" higher off the ground than the front and also had a 1" larger wheel well gap in the rear. I lowered the rear and it sits level now. I did not lower the front since it scrapes already. I will drive it this way and see if I still need to lower the front probably about 1/2" at the most.
 
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