Oil Level Sensor Fix Update -
It takes about 4 hours of labor to drain, remove, replace and refill, when done by someone who has done this repair before and who has the specialized jacking tool shown in the pic and knows just where to place it. The first pic illustrates. The jack stand touches the very front part of the engine.
a. Upon removing the two under-panels, the cross-member reveals two strategically manufactured holes to reach the oil pan bolts directly above the cross-member. First time I have ever seen design & manufacturing crews looking out for the repair crews.
b. The motor mounts have to be loosened some to allow the jack to move the engine upwards just enough for the oil pan to clear the cross-member. No need to lower the sub-frame.
c. The second pic is of the oil level sensor itself. The shiny part on the left bolts into the bottom of the oil pan. The red seal on the right is the culprit. It started out when new as an o-ring type of seal. Over time it became flattened to the same level as the pass-through shroud, causing the leak. I'm thankful the leak was intermittent. I never did figure out why it leaked sometimes rather than all the time.
d. Replacement of everything was straight-forward.
a. I would hate to have tried this repair using only ramps. Need a lift. Others may be more intrepid than I.
b. Glad, so very glad, to learn that lowering the sub-frame was unnecessary.
c. My helpful Indy suggested he would try to save me some money by attempting to fish out the o-ring by taking it off its assembly from within the oil pan, without removing the oil pan. After seeing what the situation was on the failed part, I'm glad I declined his offer.
d. I asked the dealer service folks was I going to be back in there in another 30K miles for a second go, since the replacement seal material looked to me just like what came out (except it was an o-ring shape). I got a "I dunno" shrug as a response.
e. "That was easy." (Not.) My thinner wallet fits my back pocket better, though.
Keep the Rev's Up...