Coupe just stalled, wont start back up - Page 2 - Maserati Forum
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post #16 of 34 Old 01-10-2017, 06:36 AM
 
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My 2006 Spyder exhibited random symptoms when the alternator was failing. The battery wouldn't keep a charge. Charging it externally would run the car for a few days, but as the power got drawn down, you get to a point where some systems don't have enough voltage to work correctly. I'd get low oil pressure warnings and random other things. Near the edge, it would almost stall out idling at red lights. Recharging/replacing the battery hides the symptoms. Having the alternator replaced solved the problem in my case.

Note: the volt meter on these cars is notoriously inaccurate, but does give some indication of pending failure by showing as lower than its typical level for your car. I've been tempted to wire an independent meter into the charging system just to get a realistic value.
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post #17 of 34 Old 01-10-2017, 01:29 PM
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Note: the volt meter on these cars is notoriously inaccurate, but does give some indication of pending failure by showing as lower than its typical level for your car. I've been tempted to wire an independent meter into the charging system just to get a realistic value.
I was going to do the same thing but I sold the car. I used to periodically just put a volt meter to the battery to check charging. If I was the
OP this is one of the first things I would do
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post #18 of 34 Old 01-12-2017, 11:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Thank you to everyone for your input and insight. Specially Craig! I know that was a long post and I appreciate you addressing everything.

Just got off the phone with my mechanic. He said the F1 has been replaced and the car is running again. I see that a few people have mentioned replacing the battery. That is relatively new because I replaced it a couple months after I changed the F1 last time. So its probably a little over a year old. I will look into getting a trickle charger or turning the battery off when I leave for over a week (is that something relatively easy to do?) Need to read up more about that.

As far as the no sound issue. He said they checked the fuse and that wasn't it. My mechanic doesn't do audio so he said he is going to take it to a audio specialist but that he thinks Im going to have to replace the whole system, which I'm praying is not the case because he said it runs about $2700. Yikes!
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post #19 of 34 Old 01-13-2017, 12:01 AM
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Does your nav screen come on?
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post #20 of 34 Old 01-13-2017, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yes it does. It works as usual except no sound from any speaker with radio or cd.
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post #21 of 34 Old 01-13-2017, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Coupecabricorsa View Post
Yes it does. It works as usual except no sound from any speaker with radio or cd.
And to clarify the fuse that's in the back of the nit was checked?
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post #22 of 34 Old 01-13-2017, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Lorenz-06MT View Post
And to clarify the fuse that's in the back of the nit was checked?
I asked the mechanic if it was a fuse issue and he said they checked the fuses and that they were fine. I am going to pick up my car today and will specifically ask them about the fuse in the back of the nit. Is that something I can check myself? To double check when I get home?
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post #23 of 34 Old 01-13-2017, 10:19 PM
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yes u can check it your self. Just remove the arm rest, look at the back of the nit. The lower driver side of the nit is the fuse. Hard to get to but doable. Maybe long needle nose or something like that
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post #24 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 01:12 AM
 
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I recently replaced the rear speakers in my spyder, a waste of time because it's hard to hear the sound system over the exhaust. Anyway, when I was done I turned the radio on and nothing. So I tried a CD ( not in the changer, it's defunct) and again nothing.

So I removed the center console, checked the fuse, cleaned all the plugs with electronic cleaner and reconnected. The speakers worked, but I still have to replace the door speakers as they just rattle.

So it may have been oxidation/corrosion of contacts not used for years.

2003 spyder cambiocorsa 91K mi.
1997 Jaguar XK8 conv. 98K mi.
1995 Jaguar XJ6 135K mi.
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post #25 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 01:37 AM
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You will also get no sound if there is a short on the speakers. The NIT protects itself by shutting down its amplifier.

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post #26 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 03:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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I can't believe it. Driving home from the mechanic with new F1 pump, it happened again. Pulled up to an intersection. Car went in neutral (I was driving it in automatic). Tried to get it to into "drive" nothing. Tried to get it to go into "reverse" nothing. Tried to put it in manual but gears wouldn't engage. Turned car off. Tried to turn it back on and engine would not engage. Called my mechanic. He has no idea what is going on. Had it towed back to my house, back to square one :(
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post #27 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 03:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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Also, my mechanic said there is no fuse behind the nit in my car. Could it be that the 2004 models of the Coupe Cambiocorsa don't have fuses there?
He said they checked other fuses and that they are all ok.
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post #28 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 02:35 PM
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There is a fuse behind the NIT (the unit under the arm rest).

Additionally, does your mechanic have a scan tool that accesses the F1 system in these cars? I think I mentioned this before, F1 pumps don't just continue to fail. There should be hard codes stored in the NCR (TCU) of the car that will point to what the issue is. This is why people are so scared of these cars, and F1 systems. People don't know what they are doing when they are fixing them. They are guessing at what the issue is, instead of not only doing proper diagnostics, checking the rest of the health of the system after they replace something.

Here's what we need to know:
1) When the gearbox (NCR) was scanned what codes were present? (Not talking about Enhanced Powertrain from a Snap-on scanner, you need a scan tool that can unlock and read the NCR of this car).
2) What's the solenoid on/off leakage rates?
3) What is the clutch wear readout?
4) What is the clutch degradation index (also known as clutch wear index)?
5) When the car did run......sitting idling in neutral.....how long before pump cycles? Ie.....pump comes on.....cycles....shuts off.........30 seconds later.....pump comes on again. It's the timed interval I am looking for.

I'm not trying to be overly harsh towards you or the mechanic. I am trying to get you on the right stretch of highway in order to get you going where you need to be at. My thoughts are your mechanic doesn't work on these cars, or doesn't have the scan tool necessary to access them. If he did you wouldn't of picked up the car again for it to fail.

Without the information requested above we would all just be guessing about what the issue is. That could stem from a failed or glitchy clutch position sensor, actuator potentiometers, the actual NCR itself, .....etc. This car is not the car you want to replace parts on to find the issue. It will become really expensive, very fast.

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post #29 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Coupecabricorsa View Post
Also, my mechanic said there is no fuse behind the nit in my car. Could it be that the 2004 models of the Coupe Cambiocorsa don't have fuses there?
He said they checked other fuses and that they are all ok.
Im not sure who your using for a mechanic. Maybe he just didn't see it but believe me theres a fuse back there. Driver side of the nit unit
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post #30 of 34 Old 01-14-2017, 03:03 PM
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Perhaps he was looking at the back of the display instead of the NIT.

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