Manual transmission problem - Maserati Forum
 
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-05-2011, 11:26 AM Thread Starter
 
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Manual transmission problem

I've got a 2003 Coupe GT with about 5,000 miles on the clutch.

So I went to get in my car this morning, and I couldn't get it into reverse. It was really hard to get it into any of the other gears. With the engine off it goes into reverse or any gear just fine, but with the engine on it takes a lot of muscle, no grinding noise or anything, just hard to do. It drove just fine yesterday! I drove it hard yesterday, but not abusively.

I'm totally confused, anyone have any idea what's going on? Is it safe to drive to the dealer an hour away? Thank you!!!

Update: Called the dealer, he said since there is no grinding perhaps either the shifter or the clutch is just out of adjustment. I can't find any threads on here dealing with the shifter adjustment cables, guess I'll pop off the shift boot and have a look and then try to drive it to the dealer.

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post #2 of 14 Old 05-05-2011, 04:21 PM
 
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I've experienced it before in my 2004 I think. Although it was not an issue of it being a muscle thing, it just wouldn't catch. For me it was just an issue of letting the gearbox warm up a bit. You should be fine to drive it to the dealer as long as you don't need to go into reverse.
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post #3 of 14 Old 05-05-2011, 06:56 PM
 
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problems

I am uniquely qualified to give some advice here becuase I had much the same issue with my car a 2003 manual transmissioned coupe in Grigio touring/nero. So, to start, lets address the simplest issue first

1. raise the car up, remove the fill plug and see that the oil level is all the way topped off.

2. If the oil level is less than full, check for leaks. My car had a leak becuase some idiot mechanic went and cross threaded the fill plug in the drain hole and left it dripping until it ran out of oil.

3. If the oil is nasty, drain and refill with the REDLINE 75-90NS. This stuff is great and will improve the shifting dramatically due to the way it lubes the gears

4. check that the shifter cables are adusted- i.e. no slack. You can have your mechanic do this if it makes you nervous.

5. Check that your manual trans is not getting too hot. After my car ran out of oil and I refilled it, I could touch the trans after doing some aggressive driving and it was like touching a hot pan on the stove. OUCH!

I decided to get a replacement transmission-purchased from eurospares. After putting the new trans in, it still got hot, but much less so. I was still nervous about the heat, so....

6. When I replaced my trans, I installed the euro oil cooler (bought it from eurospares). It worked wonders for cooling down my transmission. I viewed it as cheap insurance.

Anyway, hope this helps! Let me know if I can be of more assistance
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post #4 of 14 Old 05-05-2011, 07:58 PM
 
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Send a message via AIM to VT DMC
Maserati has a specific service bulletin for adjusting the shifting cables.

Willie

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post #5 of 14 Old 05-05-2011, 11:44 PM
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Great advice here... you may have adjust the linkage somewhere along the line as well.

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post #6 of 14 Old 05-06-2011, 01:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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Thanks dudes. I managed to get it into gear and then drove it around for awhile, after a trip up and down the road the gearbox worked fine. Haven't been in it since then, I should go check and see how it does. It's possible that some air got into the hydraulics for the clutch or something. Hopefully I'll be able to take it up to FCI in Greensboro (they did the clutch in October) tomorrow and they can take a look at it and address any issues.

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post #7 of 14 Old 05-24-2011, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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So it's doing the same thing again, can't shift/grinds when you try to shift/clutch pedal is very soft until it's been driven a little ways. Seems to me like there's definitely air in the hydraulic lines. I looked on here and google, couldn't find anything about the particulars for bleeding the lines on a Coupe GT. I know on most cars it's not very hard and is easily done with two people and a lift. Has anyone done this on a Maserati? Is it harder than normal? Thanks!

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post #8 of 14 Old 05-25-2011, 07:21 AM
 
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If the system isn't pushing the clutch slave cylinder far enough, you'd have those symptoms of hard shifting since you aren't completely disconnecting the engine from the transmission, so the synchros don't get a chance to match the transmission gear speeds to the drive line.

It's not necessarily air in the lines. A slow leak, either back into the master cylinder or out of the slave cylinder would give similar symptoms. After you pump it a few times, it will have enough pressure to function (better).

I don't know how Maseratis are configured, but I've had vehicles where the slave was mounted external to the bell housing and vehicles (Jeep) where it was mounted internally in-line with the drive shaft. The former is easy to get to and replace/repair; the latter requires dropping the transmission out of the car...

The piston seals in failing cylinders may also firm up after being actuated some number of times, so the problem won't necessarily re-occur immediately.

I've used self-bleeders to bleed brake systems before on vehicles and boat trailers. They're basically a vacuum pump that pulls fluid from the master cylinder. Note, for cars with ABS systems, there is often a specific factory procedure to bleed the brake system due to the additional mechanisms and sensors involved. That shouldn't be a factor with a clutch assembly.
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post #9 of 14 Old 12-02-2015, 02:46 PM
 
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I am one of the lucky ones who has a 6 speed manual and not the costly CC. It does have it's problems also, and I have the same issues on cooler days getting the clutch switch to engage. Did anyone find a fix for this. I understand the cars as stated above have issues when first starting getting hydraulic fluid into the clutch cylinder slave. One dealer did modify a slave but has anyone done anything else?




My car has very low miles and the cluch/gearbox work perfectly after it is warmed up for around 5 minutes. Pumping does not help that much. The electronic switch goes soft allowing the pedal to also be soft.
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post #10 of 14 Old 12-02-2015, 07:36 PM
 
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Skydancer, bled my 2002 Spyder and it's very easy. The bleed screw is 35 on this diagram CLUTCH AND CONTROLS -NOT FOR F1 - Ricambi America, Inc. Do it using the two person method and you'll get fresh fluid into the system.
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post #11 of 14 Old 12-03-2015, 03:51 AM
 
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Hi Tommy,

I'm in the same situation as far as the 2nd gear is concerned. I've put oil purchased from the local Maserati dealer, it did not help. Put Motul 300, same result. If it's hot outside all is well. If it's colder I have trouble engaging the 2nd gear when the oil is cold. I either double clutch or simply change from the 1st directly into the 3rd, as long as I am not going uphill all is good. Once the gear oil warms up it changes smoothly and effortlesly.

George
2003 Coupe GT 6 speed manual
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post #12 of 14 Old 12-03-2015, 03:59 AM
 
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Mine won't go in any gear until I warm it up for 5 minutes, but it may be the same problem. It has something to do with either the clutch slave or the clutch switch. My guess is the clutch slave issue as a Ferrari dealer near me did a mod on a new 4200 GT clutch slave cylinder and fixed the problem on another car when it was under warranty. They told me all the manuals had the same problem. My clutch and slave are factory original and work perfect after warming up. The car has less than 13,000 miles.
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post #13 of 14 Old 12-03-2015, 03:05 PM
 
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I have 50K on my manual car. Car is in a heated garage and the Pacific Northwest is not very cold. Car is a bit harder shifting when the engine and trans are not fully warmed up. You not driving a Chevy here. Let your car warm up before driving it. Same applies to a CC car. If you start and go the trans and cold engine are not really happy. The colder it is the more you need to let your car warm up. If its 50 outside its no big deal. When its left outside and it is 10 you should not start and drive-period. If you elect too you are only asking for trouble down the road. It really applies to any vehicle. I don't know any engine that likes to go from ice cold to operating temp. instantly. It applies to our daily drivers also but at the lower cost and better warranties you don't really car. On an exotic a little TLC and common sense goes a long way. Getting the sloppy shifting cables set up properly is key. As the clutch wears they will need adjustment to keep it in the sweet spot. I just drove my 50K car back to back with 2004 with 18K. My car with more miles and driven pretty hard it whole life has a longer clutch travel and a bit sloppier and harder to feather then the lower mileage car as expected. My car with the more worn gears is easier to shift as the paths are well worn. It does feel a bit sloppier and not as notchy as the low mile car. I have 52K on my car now and will put another 2K taking it from Seattle back down to AZ in a few weeks. I am thinking I will be needing a new clutch around 70K but we will see. Mine is original- driven hard but not abused.

Tom

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post #14 of 14 Old 12-03-2015, 04:27 PM
 
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Thank for that. My car is an early car, and it is not just a cold issue. It did it sometimes in the summer and has been doing it on and off for 6 months. It was a problem on most early manuals and some late manuals I understand from the dealer. Not sure what they changed on the late cars...
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